Getting Ready to Bed Down

Hey, its Friday again. Since I’m on a roll and since I have many pictures from our climb up Mt. Rainier, I thought I’d share this with you for my Friday picture. A little description is warranted here.

I took this picture a few paces from our base camp above Camp Sherman on the Emmons Glacier, up the southeast side of Mt. Rainier. This was our chosen route up the mountain that dominates the Seattle area skyline, resting at 14, 410 ft. The place is called “Emmons Flats” even though it was not very flat as you can see. We had to dig level tent platforms for each tent. That was hard work. We also had to make little places for our stoves to melt snow and cook dinner. Anyway, we took two days to get to this point. Many climbing groups make it in shorter time but we were taking time to get organized and acclimatized to the altitude. The elevation effects many people as it did me this trip. The brain begins to function less efficiently. The normal thought process becomes labored, and in my case, appetite diminished. Our leader kept hounding us to consume food. I did what I could but found it a chore to eat. I wish that was my problem at sea level. Maybe I should patent a new diet. The Emmons Glacier Diet. Would probably sell millions, right.

I took this picture around 4:30 in the afternoon. We were on the east side of the mountain so at this point had about another 30 minutes of direct sunlight left. When the mountain cast a shadow over our little tent village, temperatures dropped precipitously and most of us made a dash for our tents and sleeping bags, which were rated for 20′ temperatures. The goal at this point was also to get some rest, if not sleep, before we roped up for the final ascent up another 4,000 ft. of mountain. Some of us actually slept a few hours between 6 and 10pm. Some dreamed of crevasses and unknown dangers that lurked the rest of the way. Most of us were also nursing sore feet, numb toes and trying to get our sleeping pads adjusted so we could actually get warm. If any portion of the bag did not find the insulated cushion beneath us, the cold temperature of the snow and ice penetrated to our core body heat, making it very uncomfortable. Adjustment of the clothing in our bag and makeshift pillow also were chores that occupied each climber.

I actually slept a bit that night. But it was short lived. Our leader, Brad Allen [click to see a picture of our servant leader ], stepped out of his tent around 10 pm to check the weather and to see the condition of the sky. It was clear….and cold….and perfect for climbing! I had decided by that point that my feet and altitude problems would preclude me from continuing up the mountain, but Erick, my son, was eager and ready, if initially a little groggy. The group took about 40 minutes to strap on all the necessary equipment and to tie in to the ropes. Then, with crampons tight and hearts palpitating, they began to climb. When you ascend in rope teams, you have to extend the rope between climbers. This creates a separation between each person of 30 to 50 feet, depending on the length of the rope and numbers of climbers on the team. So the climb up is really a solitary experience. The view of each person climbing with their headlamps illuminated, sometimes disappearing behind the jagged topography of the mountain, creates a scene of amazing beauty and awe.

At this point I was very glad to be in my tent, but also engaged in fervent prayer for the team’s safety and care. I fell back to sleep for a few hours as the rest of the team went vertical. In a few hours I awoke to the warming sunrise in the east and began to arouse myself to take pictures, pray more, drink fluids and eat some granola bars.

Here are some photos of the view from my tent and our surroundings. The sunrise [click to see]. My blisters and sore feet [click to see]. The view looking up [click to see]. Our local crevasse [click to see]. Erick on the summit with Reid Olson holding the Mexican flag [click to see]. Erick after summating [click to see]. Our group the next morning [click to see]. The mountain in all her glory, here and here [click both to see]. You can also see a view from below timberline [click to see], or the entire slideshow of the climb over here .

God was good, the weather cooperated, and we are all back safe and sound, if still a little numb and sore. Enjoy your weekend. Muchas Bendiciones.

3 Comments

  1. An amazing feat. I’m proud of both of you but so very proud of Erick. To hear the snow and rock falling as you climb and sleep, to look out at the wonder of it all makes one feel so very small yet so very much a part of the beauty, the fear, the mountain itself. And, then to realize that not everyone can do this. Wow!! Congrats.

  2. Andy,
    I’m a little behind in looking at some of these things and saw your recent facebook post of the site where you bedded down so started searching around and found your pics and the stories. I am really proud of you! Great job! I’m sure it was a celebration with your son when he got off the top. Makes me think back to hiking Mt. Cameroon, 13,400 ft, in Cameroon, although that is significantly different. Given the overall climate while is can be relatively cold (maybe 40s) at the top and generally windy, there is no snow and its just a long hike. The route just goes up and up. I did it with Rachel and Carl in 2002, Rachel’s senior year, as she wanted to join the school group that goes every year. The kids have to keep up with running club to get train. We overnight at a hut at 8,600 ft and then go up and down the next day. Starting altitude is about 2,600. It was fun and an accomplishment for them. Carl never wanted to go back with the group again because he didn’t like to run to train. He could have bounded all the way up and back.
    In 2004, my 50th year, I participated in the race up Mt. Cameroon. Yes, a race. The winner, Cameroonian, goes up and down in 4-1/2 hours!! My partner and I had worked hard to train, like at Midwinter I’d run the steps of the Hyatt 10 times!!, but really we needed more work at higher altitudes. Whatever, we basically didn’t run, just non-stop hiking. There was plenty of liquid on the mountain. We were slow and just made the cutoff time at the first check point. Coming up towards the second checkpoint I was heaving and tired after 3-1/2 hours. I said, you know, I’ve done pretty good for a 50 year old and I have to get off this sucker. We’re on a +45 degree slope here. So I stopped at 8600 ft, rested and the went back down. I was exhausted. My partner went a bit farther but also turned back when the officials were coming off the top, said she got a second wind.
    So now its just running. First half-marathon in October, 1 hr 53 min, and considering trying to gear up for a marathon in June.
    Will I see you at Midwinter? Blessings brother. Pete

    1. Author

      Hi Pete. Yes, I will be at MidWinter. Would love to do the stairs with you too if that works. Hi to Cindy. Your experience sounds wild. I’ve determined at this point in life that elevations above 10,000 ft. mixed with exertion and me do not mix.

Comments are closed.